Shearling Coats: The Complete Guide to Real Shearling
When the temperature genuinely drops, few things outperform a shearling coat. It's one of the oldest cold-weather solutions there is, and it still works because the material does two jobs at once: the leather side blocks wind, and the wool side traps heat against you.
What Is Shearling, Exactly?
Shearling is a sheepskin hide tanned with the wool still attached. One side is finished as leather, the other keeps its natural fleece. It isn't wool sewn into a leather shell — it's a single piece of hide doing both jobs, which is exactly why it insulates so well without needing bulk.
A double-face shearling means both sides are finished to be worn or seen, which is why you'll often find these coats with the fleece turned out at the collar and cuffs.
Real Shearling vs Faux
| Genuine shearling | Faux shearling | |
|---|---|---|
| Warmth | Exceptional, breathes naturally | Warm but traps moisture |
| Weight | Substantial | Lighter |
| Lifespan | Decades with care | A few seasons |
| Ageing | Softens and improves | Matts and flattens |
Genuine shearling costs more and weighs more. In return you get warmth that synthetic linings struggle to match, and a coat that lasts long enough to justify the price.
How Warm Is It Really?
Very. Shearling was standard issue for pilots in unheated, high-altitude cockpits long before it was a fashion choice, and the reason is simple physics: the dense fleece traps a layer of warm air against the body while the leather outer stops wind cutting through it. Unlike a sealed synthetic, it also breathes, so you're less likely to overheat moving between cold streets and warm interiors.
Styles to Consider
- Full-length shearling coat. Maximum coverage and warmth, strong presence.
- Aviator style. Shorter, with the signature fold-down fleece collar.
- Shearling-collar coat. Fleece at the collar only, with a lighter body. Less warm, less bulk.
- Double-face. Both sides finished, often with fleece visible at the edges.
Fit and Sizing
Shearling is a winter coat, so it needs to accommodate what you'll wear underneath. Check that you can layer a jumper without the shoulders pulling. At the same time, avoid going too big — an oversized shearling turns into a lot of bulk quickly. The shoulders should still sit cleanly at your shoulder edge, and the collar should turn up without straining.
Caring for Shearling
Shearling needs a slightly different routine to smooth leather:
- Brush the fleece gently with a suede or shearling brush to keep it lofted rather than matted.
- Condition only the leather side, and sparingly. Never apply conditioner to the wool.
- If it gets wet, hang it and let it dry naturally away from radiators. Heat is what ruins shearling.
- Store on a wide, sturdy hanger — these coats are heavy — in a breathable cover, never plastic.
- For deep cleaning, use a specialist. Household cleaners and domestic machines will damage it.
Our leather care guide covers the basics that carry across.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is a shearling coat made of?
A single sheepskin hide tanned with the wool left on. One side is finished as leather, the other keeps its natural fleece, which is what makes it so warm.
Is shearling warmer than wool?
Generally yes. The fleece traps warm air while the leather side blocks wind, which a woven wool coat alone doesn't do.
Can shearling get wet?
Light rain is manageable. Blot it, hang it, and let it dry naturally away from heat. Avoid soaking it, and never dry it on a radiator.
How do you clean a shearling coat?
Brush the fleece to lift dirt and keep it lofted, spot-clean marks carefully, and use a specialist cleaner for anything more. Don't put it in a washing machine.
Find Your Shearling at Gacket
Choose genuine shearling if warmth and longevity matter, allow room to layer without going oversized, and keep it away from direct heat. Explore our handcrafted men's shearling coats and women's shearling jackets and coats.