Nubuck vs Suede: What's the Difference?

They look similar and feel soft, but nubuck and suede are not the same material. Both are types of leather with a raised, velvety surface instead of a smooth finish, and from across a room they can be hard to tell apart. The difference comes down to which part of the hide each one is made from, and that single fact shapes how durable they are, how they feel, what they cost, and how you should care for them. Knowing it helps you choose the right one and, just as importantly, look after it correctly.

How They're Made

The key difference is which side of the hide is used:

• Nubuck is made from the outer side of the hide, sanded to raise a fine, velvety nap. Because it comes from the tougher outer layer — the same top-grain surface used for premium smooth leather — it's more durable.
• Suede is made from the inner (under) side of the hide, the split beneath the top grain. It has a softer, longer nap but is thinner and less hard-wearing.

Put simply, nubuck is top-grain leather that has been buffed on its good side, while suede is the underlayer that is left with a nap on both faces. That is why a nubuck surface tends to look finer and more even, and a suede surface looks a little fuzzier and more open. If you want the wider picture of how hides are graded and split, our types of leather guide and full-grain vs top-grain guide put both materials in context.

Side by Side

	Nubuck	Suede
Made from	Outer hide, sanded	Inner hide
Nap	Fine, short, velvety	Softer, longer
Durability	More durable	Less durable
Feel	Slightly firmer	Softer, more flexible
Cost	Usually higher	Usually lower

How to Tell Them Apart by Hand

If you are holding an item and are not sure which you have, a few checks settle it. Nubuck has a very short, tight nap that feels almost like fine velvet and shows a subtle grain if you look closely, since it comes from the outer surface. Suede has a slightly longer, looser nap and feels softer and more pliable, and it will drape more easily when you fold it. Brushing a hidden patch in one direction and then the other reveals the "two-tone" shading effect on both, but it is usually more pronounced on suede. When in doubt, treat an unknown napped leather as suede — the gentler care approach won't harm nubuck.

Which Should You Choose?

Choose nubuck for footwear and items that take wear, where its extra durability pays off. Choose suede for jackets and accessories where softness and drape matter more than toughness. Both look premium; nubuck is the more rugged of the two.

In practice, the decision is about the job the item has to do. Boots, sneakers, and everyday bags live a harder life, so nubuck's tougher origin is worth the slightly higher price. A moto jacket, a soft weekender, or gloves benefit from suede's flexibility and lighter hand, which let the material move with you and drape cleanly. Color plays a part too: pale nubuck and suede both mark, but nubuck's firmer surface tends to shrug off scuffs a little better, while a mid-brown or charcoal suede hides everyday marks more forgivingly than a light tan.

Caring for Both

Nubuck and suede share the same care approach, different from smooth leather:

• Use a suede/nubuck brush to lift dirt and restore the nap — never a damp cloth as your main method.
• Apply a protector spray before wear to guard against water and stains.
• Use a suede eraser for scuffs.
• Never use standard leather conditioner on either — it flattens the nap.
• Let them dry naturally if wet, then brush to revive the texture.

A little routine keeps both looking their best. Brush in one direction for everyday tidying, then back and forth to lift a crushed or matted nap. Reapply protector spray every few wears and again after the item gets wet, since water strips the coating. For a set-in mark, a dedicated suede eraser or a fine-grit block works where a cloth would only spread it. Store napped leather in a breathable dust bag rather than plastic, and keep it away from radiators and direct sun, which fade the color and dry the fibers. Because the care differs so much from smooth hide, it is worth reading our leather care guide so you don't accidentally treat suede like a smooth jacket.

Are They Water-Resistant?

Neither is naturally water-resistant, and both mark easily when wet, which is why a protector spray is essential. Nubuck holds up slightly better thanks to its tougher origin, but treat both as materials to protect before wearing in the rain.

If a napped item does get caught in a downpour, don't try to speed-dry it. Blot off surface water gently, stuff the item to hold its shape, and let it air-dry at room temperature away from heat. Once fully dry, brush the nap back up and reapply protector. Handled this way, an occasional soaking is not the end of a suede or nubuck piece — it's forcing it dry with heat, or skipping the protector in the first place, that causes lasting damage.

Frequently Asked Questions

What's the difference between nubuck and suede?

Nubuck is made from the sanded outer hide and is more durable; suede is made from the softer inner hide and is more flexible but less hard-wearing.

Is nubuck more durable than suede?

Yes. Nubuck comes from the tougher outer layer of the hide, so it stands up to wear better than suede.

Can you use leather conditioner on nubuck or suede?

No. Standard leather conditioner flattens the nap. Use a dedicated brush and protector spray instead.

Are nubuck and suede waterproof?

Neither is naturally water-resistant. Both mark easily when wet, so apply a protector spray before wearing them in the rain.

Is nubuck or suede more expensive?

Nubuck usually costs more because it is made from the premium outer layer of the hide, while suede comes from the less costly inner split.

Explore Suede & Nubuck at Gacket

Both bring a soft, premium texture to leather goods, and each has its place — suede for supple jackets and accessories, nubuck for footwear and pieces that take more wear. Explore our handcrafted suede jackets and leather footwear, each made from genuine leather and backed by our lifetime stitch guarantee.

If you have settled on suede, browse women's suede jackets and men's suede jackets.